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	<title>Comments on: The Importance of Teaching Bite Inhibition</title>
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		<title>By: jenna</title>
		<link>http://jennaandsnickers.com/2009/05/importance-teaching-bite-inhibition/#comment-519</link>
		<dc:creator>jenna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Jun 2009 06:16:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jennaandsnickers.com/?p=476#comment-519</guid>
		<description>Hi Jodi!

I am so glad that my answer to your bite inhibition question was useful and flattered that you came to visit my website! After reading your comment here, I realized you&#039;d also posted this question on Yahoo Answers so I answered it there. Here is what I said...

&lt;blockquote&gt;There are really no short and easy answers to these questions and, without meeting your dog, it&#039;s hard to even feel confident making suggestions. Aggression is SUCH a serious issue and not something that can be remedied easily. 

The good news is, Kit is a PUPPY and the chances that she&#039;s really a dangerously aggressive dog already are fairly slim! Keep in mind that I am just another Shiba owner - not a dog trainer or behaviorist - but here are some points/ideas that may help you figure out what to do next.

  -  Shibas are not necessarily more &quot;dog aggressive&quot; than other breeds, but they are a more primitive type breed. Their social structure and communication methods are very different from breeds like spaniels. They tend to have a very well-defined sense of personal space and little patience for other dogs who invade it!
  -  Like I said before, Kit is just a puppy. She&#039;s just doing what puppies do, although possibly to enthusiastically. She needs to learn self-control and better communication skills.
  -  There probably were a handful of warning signals each time she &quot;attacked.&quot; Unfortunately, most new owners don&#039;t read doggy body language and if those signals flash by in an instant, you will miss them. 
  -  A good trainer can help you learn to read your dog, other dogs, and situations before the escalate. Find one. Preferable a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (doubtful that this includes the PetSmart trainer).
  -  Keeping her away from other dogs is reactionary and will probably have opposite the desired effect. Socialize her with older, calmer dogs who will not get in her face and will help her learn how to communicate and negotiate with other dogs. A good trainer can help you find dogs to socialize with.
  -  All of this socializing and training will go more smoothly if it can be done off-leash (in a safe, securely fenced area of course). Most dogs feel much more insecure when leashed because their freedom to protect themselves - and even to communicate properly - is restricted. Also, your stress and concern are communicated to her through a tense leash, making her feel there is a problem she has to handle for you. (I&#039;m not suggesting you go to a dog park and turn her loose with other dogs to learn to socialize. Dogs do learn from other dogs though and the right doggy teachers can make a big difference.)
  -  Re the HOA, I don&#039;t know anything about that sort of stuff, but my GUESS is that they would have to have documented aggression incidents (dog bites involving hospitalization) to make any legal demands on you.

Also, here are some great books that might help you.

  -  Bones Would Rain from the Sky: Deepening Our Relationships With Dogs by Suzanne Clothier
  -  On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas
  -  The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell
  -  &lt;a href=&quot;http://jennaandsnickers.com/2008/10/how-dogs-think/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How Dogs Think: What the World Looks Like to Them and Why They Act the Way They Do&lt;/a&gt; by Stanley Coren
&lt;/blockquote&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Jodi!</p>
<p>I am so glad that my answer to your bite inhibition question was useful and flattered that you came to visit my website! After reading your comment here, I realized you&#8217;d also posted this question on Yahoo Answers so I answered it there. Here is what I said&#8230;</p>
<blockquote><p>There are really no short and easy answers to these questions and, without meeting your dog, it&#8217;s hard to even feel confident making suggestions. Aggression is SUCH a serious issue and not something that can be remedied easily. </p>
<p>The good news is, Kit is a PUPPY and the chances that she&#8217;s really a dangerously aggressive dog already are fairly slim! Keep in mind that I am just another Shiba owner &#8211; not a dog trainer or behaviorist &#8211; but here are some points/ideas that may help you figure out what to do next.</p>
<p>  &#8211;  Shibas are not necessarily more &#8220;dog aggressive&#8221; than other breeds, but they are a more primitive type breed. Their social structure and communication methods are very different from breeds like spaniels. They tend to have a very well-defined sense of personal space and little patience for other dogs who invade it!<br />
  &#8211;  Like I said before, Kit is just a puppy. She&#8217;s just doing what puppies do, although possibly to enthusiastically. She needs to learn self-control and better communication skills.<br />
  &#8211;  There probably were a handful of warning signals each time she &#8220;attacked.&#8221; Unfortunately, most new owners don&#8217;t read doggy body language and if those signals flash by in an instant, you will miss them.<br />
  &#8211;  A good trainer can help you learn to read your dog, other dogs, and situations before the escalate. Find one. Preferable a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (doubtful that this includes the PetSmart trainer).<br />
  &#8211;  Keeping her away from other dogs is reactionary and will probably have opposite the desired effect. Socialize her with older, calmer dogs who will not get in her face and will help her learn how to communicate and negotiate with other dogs. A good trainer can help you find dogs to socialize with.<br />
  &#8211;  All of this socializing and training will go more smoothly if it can be done off-leash (in a safe, securely fenced area of course). Most dogs feel much more insecure when leashed because their freedom to protect themselves &#8211; and even to communicate properly &#8211; is restricted. Also, your stress and concern are communicated to her through a tense leash, making her feel there is a problem she has to handle for you. (I&#8217;m not suggesting you go to a dog park and turn her loose with other dogs to learn to socialize. Dogs do learn from other dogs though and the right doggy teachers can make a big difference.)<br />
  &#8211;  Re the HOA, I don&#8217;t know anything about that sort of stuff, but my GUESS is that they would have to have documented aggression incidents (dog bites involving hospitalization) to make any legal demands on you.</p>
<p>Also, here are some great books that might help you.</p>
<p>  &#8211;  Bones Would Rain from the Sky: Deepening Our Relationships With Dogs by Suzanne Clothier<br />
  &#8211;  On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas<br />
  &#8211;  The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell<br />
  &#8211;  <a href="http://jennaandsnickers.com/2008/10/how-dogs-think/" rel="nofollow">How Dogs Think: What the World Looks Like to Them and Why They Act the Way They Do</a> by Stanley Coren
</p></blockquote>
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		<title>By: Jodi</title>
		<link>http://jennaandsnickers.com/2009/05/importance-teaching-bite-inhibition/#comment-515</link>
		<dc:creator>Jodi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 May 2009 19:37:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jennaandsnickers.com/?p=476#comment-515</guid>
		<description>Hi Jenna! You answered my question on Yahoo about bite inhibition and I am happy to report that it worked AWESOME!! Kittie no longer nips or bites. She will ocassionally take my hand in her mouth when we are laying on the couch at night, but now she sorta sucks on it like she&#039;s trying to nurse or something. There is no pressure or teeth! What a relife from the sharp little puppy teeth! I however have a new problem that I need shiba peoples advice on! Kittie is now 14 weeks and is the perfect pet around me and she even loves strangers. I have been socializing her with the other pups and dogs in the neighborhood since we got her at 10 weeks and we have had zero problems. Notice I said had. On Thursday when my husband was taking Kit on a jog he ran into Tessie a boston terrier. Kit did her normal tailwag greeting and went over to say hi, next thing my husband new Kit was snarling and had the other dogs face wrinkles in her mouth!!! YIKES! She did not hurt Tessie (I think maybe the bite inhibition training kept her from breaking the skin and doing damage) but she scared her and royal cheesed the neighbor. My husband told me this and I went &quot;huh, Tessie must have started it somehow, Kittie would never attack like that.&quot; Well I now see that that was a HUGE and irresponsible mistake on my part because yesterday she repeated the behavior with an italian greyhound puppy who had previously been her best friend (no damage, just snarl and grab), and she did it right in front of the president of the home owners association who happens to be incapable of reconzing the diff. between a shiba and an akita and hates both. So now I am the irresponsible owner with the &#039;vicious&#039; dog. Our HOA is very strict and I was told by a friend that there might be a petition to force me to rehome her or move. This seems really drastic to me, so I need advice on what type of training to give her so that this doesn&#039;t happen. I don&#039;t want her to live a life without doggie friends, but I can&#039;t risk loosing her either. I don&#039;t know what to do. Any help from people who have had a similar problem would be welcome.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Jenna! You answered my question on Yahoo about bite inhibition and I am happy to report that it worked AWESOME!! Kittie no longer nips or bites. She will ocassionally take my hand in her mouth when we are laying on the couch at night, but now she sorta sucks on it like she&#8217;s trying to nurse or something. There is no pressure or teeth! What a relife from the sharp little puppy teeth! I however have a new problem that I need shiba peoples advice on! Kittie is now 14 weeks and is the perfect pet around me and she even loves strangers. I have been socializing her with the other pups and dogs in the neighborhood since we got her at 10 weeks and we have had zero problems. Notice I said had. On Thursday when my husband was taking Kit on a jog he ran into Tessie a boston terrier. Kit did her normal tailwag greeting and went over to say hi, next thing my husband new Kit was snarling and had the other dogs face wrinkles in her mouth!!! YIKES! She did not hurt Tessie (I think maybe the bite inhibition training kept her from breaking the skin and doing damage) but she scared her and royal cheesed the neighbor. My husband told me this and I went &#8220;huh, Tessie must have started it somehow, Kittie would never attack like that.&#8221; Well I now see that that was a HUGE and irresponsible mistake on my part because yesterday she repeated the behavior with an italian greyhound puppy who had previously been her best friend (no damage, just snarl and grab), and she did it right in front of the president of the home owners association who happens to be incapable of reconzing the diff. between a shiba and an akita and hates both. So now I am the irresponsible owner with the &#8216;vicious&#8217; dog. Our HOA is very strict and I was told by a friend that there might be a petition to force me to rehome her or move. This seems really drastic to me, so I need advice on what type of training to give her so that this doesn&#8217;t happen. I don&#8217;t want her to live a life without doggie friends, but I can&#8217;t risk loosing her either. I don&#8217;t know what to do. Any help from people who have had a similar problem would be welcome.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Maura</title>
		<link>http://jennaandsnickers.com/2009/05/importance-teaching-bite-inhibition/#comment-505</link>
		<dc:creator>Maura</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 00:50:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jennaandsnickers.com/?p=476#comment-505</guid>
		<description>Frozen baby carrots!  Nutritious, yummy and good for the teeth.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Frozen baby carrots!  Nutritious, yummy and good for the teeth.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: jenna</title>
		<link>http://jennaandsnickers.com/2009/05/importance-teaching-bite-inhibition/#comment-503</link>
		<dc:creator>jenna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 May 2009 21:15:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://jennaandsnickers.com/?p=476#comment-503</guid>
		<description>Thank you! Not only do I not &lt;strong&gt;mind&lt;/strong&gt; if you send people to read this post, &lt;strong&gt;I&#039;m flattered&lt;/strong&gt;. :)

Pups from one-pup litters have a special hurdle to overcome. I&#039;ve talked to a couple breeders about this in regard to bite inhibition (because of a rescue Shiba that had been a single pup actually). They told me that they try to get them mixed in and playing with pups of a similar age as soon as possible. That&#039;s tough if you don&#039;t have another litter available though!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you! Not only do I not <strong>mind</strong> if you send people to read this post, <strong>I&#8217;m flattered</strong>. <img src='http://jennaandsnickers.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Pups from one-pup litters have a special hurdle to overcome. I&#8217;ve talked to a couple breeders about this in regard to bite inhibition (because of a rescue Shiba that had been a single pup actually). They told me that they try to get them mixed in and playing with pups of a similar age as soon as possible. That&#8217;s tough if you don&#8217;t have another litter available though!</p>
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